s e v e n i s a j o u r n e y

On Tuesday the 18th we were up early, the previous day had been “long”, about 36 hours of day with the cross-Asia flight. Thankfully our body clocks were managing well.

After a fabulous breakfast buffet (Central Palace Hotel was the winner for breakfasts the entire trip) we hit the town about 8AM. We walked down Istiklal Caddesi, the pedestrian shopping street off Taksim Square, and got to Galata Tower. Lovely round tower, very tall. Probably a great view from the top. But it didn’t open until 9, so we decided to head onwards towards the Palace District (Topkapi) and the Archaeological Museum within.

Istanbul is large. It is bigger than Seoul, with a population of 12.8 million, making it city #4 in the world. Thankfully all we had to do was walk across the bridge over the Golden Horn, and make our way through the old city to the palaces. No problem. Well, first there was a shopping district (the spice market bazaar) that had to be explored. [Actually, we went straight through the Egyptian Spice Bazaar and right out the other side. Most of what we were exploring were the streets of shops around and behind the bazaar, where the regular Turks shopped. Shops of kitchen wares, cheap shoes, haberdasheries, a whole street of hijab scarves... --T.]After winding our way about and generally uphill for awhile, we found ourselves next Istanbul University and a largish street with a street sign pointing us towards “Topkapi”.

So, following the street signs we walked. And walked. And walked. [...a threeee hour tourrr....! --T.] Eventually, in the distance, an old wall was visible. As we got closer the horror sunk in, the wall was pointing outwards. We had just walked the entire length of the old city, and were now at the old outer city walls! [Confirmed by a helpful passing Turk, whom we waylaid into pointing out where we were on our map. --T] Turns out there are TWO Topkapi’s. One has the palaces, the other is a neighbourhood just outside the city wall. This is an important thing to know. At least we now have a good feel for just how large classical Constantinople was! (Topkapi means “cannon gate”. They had one at the palace, makes sense they had one at the outer walls, too.)

We took the tram back across town. It was inexpensive, modern, clean and efficient. We had lunch down at the palaces-end of the old city, [At a yummy cafe recommended by a fellow who would much rather have sold us a carpet, but who recognized the feral look of extreme hunger on our faces for what it was. --T.] then began our explorations of the Archaeology Museum. It provided many moments of recognizable famous pieces. There was a huge wealth of items, spanning many periods. I particularly like the Roman-era Stele (grave markers), which often had amusing or poignant epitaphs. There was a very touching ode to a beloved dog, and another written to honor the “intellectual charioteer”. (?)

His owner has buried the dog Parthenope, that he played with, in gratitude for this happiness. [Mutual] love is rewarding, like the one for this dog: Having been a friend to my owner, I have deserved this grave. Looking at this, find yourself a worthy friend who is both ready to love you while you are still alive and also will care for your body [when you die].

After the museum our legs were tired, and our feet sore, so we caught the funicular tram back up the hill to Taksim Square. We met up with my newly-arrived parents for dinner, and then had an evening meeting with the tour group. There were 12 of us, plus Hassan the guide. All retirees except Tam and I.

The morning of Wednesday the 19th we learned that Hassan means it when it comes to punctuality. “Leave at 9AM” does not mean “start assembling at 9AM.” Good. I like punctuality. Less waiting around, more seeing the sights we are here to see.

First up was the Hippodrome, or at least the outline of where it once stood. Of the pillars and obelisks within the Hippodrome area I was most taken by the intertwined brass serpents from Delphi. It would really have liked to know more about its method of fabrication, as it was a large, old, and impressive work of metallurgy.

Then we went into the Blue Mosque, which was quite crowded due to a cruise-ship tour arriving simultaneously. This is still a working mosque, and people in the back were praying while we were there. We heard the tale of the enthusiastic young Sultan who dreamt of building the mosque, worked himself on its construction, and then was really depressed when the populace refused to use it in protest to the huge expenditure of money. The architect of the Blue Mosque went on to do the Taj Mahal. It was certainly beautiful. [The Sultan, however, died of depression. -- T.]

Next up, the Hagia Sophia. This one blew me away. The sheer size, and sense of space and majesty of it. Wow. Double wow. Yes, the art had been munted to various degrees by iconoclasts in the 9th century, but it is the building itself that awed me. I found the 6th century earthquake damage sensor really neat- panes of glass set in the stonework. Depending on which pane breaks, you know what direction the earthquake energy hit the building, and can thus repair/strengthen as needed. Plenty of work has been done over the centuries to repair and maintain it, the Ottoman-era iron bars connecting various bits being one of the more visible additions. [What they don't tend to tell you is that most of it is paneled in the loudest slabs of colored marble -- pinks and greens and golds. They've faded a *lot* in 1500 years, but they must have been eye-wateringly bright back in the day. --T.]

Next up, the Bascillica Cistern (also from 532, Justinian liked his projects) of which the most interesting bit was the Medussa heads used as recycled bits to prop up columns when they built the place. All the columns had been recycled from other places, a few were just a bit short, and needed to be propped up. There was also the “tears” column, which is of a very wacky style I have never seen before. And classics majors out there care to inform me what I am looking at?

The final bit of the day was the Grand Bazaar, which is indeed a huge warren, with lots of tourist fare (unlike the local bazaar we had explored the day before). The most amazing shop was run by a Turkmen guy, and it was all Turkmen jewellery. You would need very deep pockets (expensive!), but amazing stuff.

Thursday the 20th we all met on time, and took the short bus trip over to Topkapi (the correct one) to tour the Ottoman-era palace. Upon entering the palace we were confronted by a familiar fragrance- blooming Cabbage Trees! Everyone loves interesting exotic species for their garden.

The palace was okay, but the treasures really stood out. The had some fun religious “relics” that were seized from the Mamluks in the 16th century including Moses’ Stick, the sword David used to kill Goliath, the Prophets Robe, etc. We also saw what were essentially the crown jewels of the Ottomans- not subtle at all! Everything was thickly and gaudily layered with gemstones, or carved directly from rock crystal. I was impressed by the large crystal and gold box piled high with enormous gemstones (mostly emeralds). Such a pile was quite the sight. The displays on the Kaftans could have been better, and better signage everywhere would have been appreciated.

After the spice Bazaar (which Tam and I had toured on our own on day 1 in Istanbul), where I was acting as a living mobile cane for Kerrie, a member of our group who had turned her ankle in Topkapi palace, we headed down to the golden horn to hop on a boat. We then had a 90 minute ride out across the golden horn, and up and down the Bosphorus a bit. Many, many waterfront Ottoman palaces from the 18th and 19th centuries, many now turned in US$ 4000/night super-luxury hotels. Lovely views of the old city , the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia.

We went back through Taksim Square to get dinner, and there was a vast police presence. Armoured water-cannon vehicles, riot police all lined up with shields and helmets. And there, 50 meters away, a group of a few hundred University-age protesters was gathering. Apparently it is normal to have such a huge police presence for these pre-approved demonstrations, to make sure nothing happens. The police and protesters both seemed rather relaxed about the whole affair (though any actual protesting had not started yet when we went by).

(And finally, if you are wondering, the They Might be Giants Istanbul/Constantinople song was running through my head the whole time we were there.)

Got to bed early, as tomorrow was an early start for our flight to Cappadocia! But more on that in Part 3!

Finally, the one thing our market and street photos of Seoul that is deceiving is the lack of people. These shots were taken early in the morning, when Seoul is still very quiet. Try snapping the photo at 8 PM and the street would have been *solid* with people. Like, hard to make your way through them all solid. [Like, hard to get a photo of anything but the back of someone's head solid. --T.]